The Guide Hut serves as a meeting location, rental shop and retail store for guests of Northwest Alpine Guides. Photo Daniel Bynum. I listed Rob as the alternate trip leader on the permit since he would have an easier time skipping out of work early on Friday to make it to the ranger station in time to grab the permit. Rapping the famous 'dihedral'. After driving through an hour of rain, we finally rolled in to Glacier. Cold drinking water will be available in high camp. As a climber, you will be in a land of fragile vegetationtreat it with great care! Upon receiving your registration, Northwest Alpine Guides will email you complete PreClimb information, including a gear list specific to your itinerary and other departure details. We lead the Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimney Route at a 2 to 1 climber to guide ratio ensuring that you receive personal attention and hands-on instruction throughout the climb. Mt. Climb 3rd and 4th class alpine rock up the spectacular Fisher Chimneys to the summit of Mount Shuksan. X NO backpacking or trekking boots are allowed above high camp on any trip. Artemiza, Amber, and Kristen were led by Forrest and Eve on one of the most beautiful mountains and climbs in the Pacific Northwest. We weren't in a huge rush on day one so we left Seattle at 7 AM and started hiking around 10 AM. Both the popularity and rockfall risk on this climb can create dangerous situations. Burlington, WA 98233. Then I pulled the rope for them, packed up the picket anchor and downclimbed Hells Highway while they reconfigured the rope for glacier travel down below. The glaciers in route to your objective are watershed to major spillways feeding the highest degree of flora biodiversity of any American national park. Baker-Snoqualmie & Okanogan-Wenatchee, and Shoshone National Forests, the North Cascades and Denali National Parks, as well as Monticello, Moab, and Banks Lake Bureau of Land Management and Washington State Parks. Mountain climbing can be unpredictable weather conditions can change in a moment and one wrong step can lead to an injury. Our guides are friendly, very willing to share their own experiences, and can help you develop a plan to achieve your own climbing ambitions. The Fisher Chimneys is the classic all-around alpine climb in the North Cascades. The Mountain Bureau LLC operates under Special Use Permits with the Mt. For more information on food storage requirements see this page. Joe making his way up the ridge. Mt. Here are a few details of our successful summit climb of Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys. This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. Sedro Woolley, WA 98284, Office Hours All balances are due 120 days prior to climb start date and can be paid by check, wire transfer, or by credit card with a surcharge of 3%. Mount Shuksan : Fischer Chimneys 7/18/2016 . All meadows are susceptible to trampling damage, and erosion from too many boots trodding one path can dislodge plant species and cause more erosion. Dates & Prices. This non-volcanic North Cascades Peak offers access to a wide span of glaciated and rock terrain for climbing. Guidebooks Numerous popular climbing guidebooks are available for learning about routes and peaks in the park. Shuksan is a North Cascades classic involving an interesting mix of alpine terrain: climbing on rock, steep snow and potentially ice, and glacier travel to the base of the summit pyramid. No trip planning is complete until you consider the most important element of any climb: returning safely and without injury. Related climbs: Mount Shuksan Sulphide Glacier, Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys,Forbidden Peak, Mount Baker North Ridge, Day 1 Hike to High Camp You should be able to hike/climb for 1 to 2 hours at a time, punctuated by 10 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours. Suggested food items: Alpine Breakfast: Instant oatmeal, Pop Tarts, dried fruit, granola bars, bagels, peanut butter, cream cheese. Take exit 232 from I-5 S, Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) Click to read more about the Peaks of the North Cascadesin Washington State. After getting both of them set up with extended rappels, I would rap with coils to get the ropes down to the next station and set up. updates, images, or resources. Me leading up the final (I think) pitch of the ridge just behind the party ahead of us. We got to the Lake Ann trailhead a bit after sunset, welcomed by swarms of biting flies. Upper Chichester Township Permits are: Building, Electrical, Fire Protection, Mechanical, and Plumbing. Education Get all the details on our educational programs, including our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), Wilderness First Aid (WFA), and much more. Our guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb a glacier to the summit. Monday Friday / 9:00 5:00 PT, 3 Day Climb Washington State 9,131 ft. You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. Baker and Fisher Chimneys on Mt. The North Cascades are a climber's playground. If you are trying to coordinate a ride, feel free to send an email to info@northwestalpineguides.com and we can forward it to your fellow climbers. Climb easy snow and rock, then climb 150 ft up a slope of steep snow or ice (Winnie's Slide, incorrectly labeled on the map), and cross through the ridge onto the Upper Curtis Glacier. Pre-dawn alpine start form High Camp ascending the glaciers to the Summit of 9131 with light summit packs. We descend our climbing route back to high camp and enjoy a relaxing afternoon. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide you with a detailed PreClimb departure book upon registration including a gear list specific to your trip, meeting location and driving directions. 9384 Old Hwy 99 North Day 1: Lunch & snacks for hike from trailhead to high camp, Dinner We serve both local and out-of-town climbers in our Northwest programs, and many of our guests prefer to use their own vehicles. Payments Policy. Spontaneity Arete from the previous weekend. Mount Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys. Drive I-5 to Bellingham. We cannot overstate how critical it is for you to bring foods that you enjoy eating. Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guides for recommendations. If you feel you cannot safely navigate the terrain without leaving a marker, label your stakes or flagging and then be diligent and responsible in removing each and every one. Additionally, only one person (Joe) was available for that weekend. Our instructors are highly skilled professional guides who have been selected based on their technical proficiency, proven safety records, careful judgment, patience, and supportive teaching styles. Gear may be purchased from the Guide Hut in person on the morning of your climb, or in advance via, . Last light as we exited the chimneys proper and continued on our descent. A perfect combination of glacier and moderate rock climbing in a dramatic Cascade setting. Note:Pack basic medical supplies in a compact package. Backpacks smaller than 65 liters are not acceptable. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. We had gone over the basic system in the classroom at work, but he hadnt had the previous rock trip to practice in a single pitch setting. There are composting toilets at climbing areas in Boston Basin and the Sulphide Glacier on Mt. June 27-28. We recommend a selection of sweet, sour and salty food. Your guide team will pool all tips. Take SR-542 past the Mount Baker Ski Area as far as the road goes depending on the time of year. Day 2 . Team members are free to organize rideshares with other team members. Day 3 Hike to Trailhead. Access to large portions of North Cascades National Park are limited and it is difficult in peak season to acquire access to popular climbs. The Sulphide was cruiser, very straightforward and direct path up to the summit. Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, From State Highway 20 East, at the traffic circle, take the 2nd exit onto Cook Road (after the Walgreens), Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) Enjoy a Northwest Alpine Guides adventure and summit a beautiful peak in the heart of North Cascades National Park. Take a walk before dinner and find a scenic site far from your camp area to cook and wash up. Permits are mandatory any time you plan to spend the night, whether in a tent or at a bivy site. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine . 810 State Route 20 Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge- 08.15-17, 2020 (summer glacier and rock climb) . This initially caused some delays waiting for them on the first couple pitches, however by the last pitch they were fully ahead, and we were our own limiting factor. In 1975 Joe Horiskey led RMI's first guided ascent of Denali and since then RMI has led over 300 Expeditions of Denali. It wasnt late, so we had some time to decide. Or, walk-up permits can be obtained for free from any park ranger station in-person just before your climb, if sites are available, on a last-minute basis. Complex glacier travel, moderate and exposed rock climbing and often a bit of easy ice climbing later in the season. This party had the same intentions so in the end they never really got ahead of us. Trip Date: July 7-8, 2018 Distance: ~14 . We left Seattle about 5:30. am, to ensure that were the first people at the ranger station for Price XC. Although I started out with 4 people, life and work chipped away at each persons schedule so by the time the first weekend in August came around we had not yet gotten to do our practical snow skills. Me, crampons on getting ready to go check out the snow conditions on Hell's Highway. The 50/60m double rope setup reached the '3rd' rap station no problem. The low-impact principles of Leave No Trace are important no matter what activity you are engaged in, but in the alpine and in popular climbing areas, some practices become critical to the ecological health of the area. The thin floor still always makes me nervous on rocky terrain. Climbing Time: 4 hours. Please visit the online Gear Shop for a list of available merchandise and to pre-purchase items. Protect wildlife and your gear Sunset was worth interrupting my sleep for a half hour for photos. Pushing past Lake Ann, the group will climb another 2,000 ft to their camp above the Lower Curtis Glacier; 4.8 Miles, +2,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hrs Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack WeightDay 2 - In the alpine air, training clinics will begin. It only takes one instance of a bear obtaining food from a climber to cause a problemdont be the one who makes this mistake. Climb the gully past two class 3-4 steps and short traverses and up a longer, straight section. Mount Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys Attempt. The last pitch was long, and I hit the end of the 50m rope I was on; however by the time I got to the end it was just class 3 so I put a micro-traxion on a piece near the top and had Rob, who was belaying me, just start climbing to make it the last 15-20 feet to the top anchor. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys . Location: Mount ShuksanRatio: 2:1 climber to guide (max. If you have never rock climbed before, we strongly recommend that you participate in one of our rock climbing courses before climbing the Fisher Chimneys: Intro to Alpine Rock Climbing Travel, evacuation and rescue coverage designed for adventure travelers. The mountains feature steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous United States. We are a committed equal opportunity outdoor recreation service provider. Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance. Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, The NWAG Guide Hut is the first building on your left, Take I-5 South towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County. The balance can be paid by check, or credit card. We will get your pack to a comfortable weight and have time to answer any questions you may have.Day 1 - Travel to the trailhead, near Artist Point at 4,600, in the heart of the North Cascades. Depends on, Priority for the Everett basic students others open up on July 1st . The climb continues up over parts of three different glaciers - the White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide Glaciers and concludes with a 5.0 rock climb up the . After that, climbing permits are obtained on a first-come, first-serve basis and subject to limited availability. Flagging and excessive webbing are considered trashpack them out like you do all of your other garbage! Climbing boots must be full shank and crampon compatible. Not a bad considering it was Joe's first ever climbing experience of any kind! Joe coming down the first rappel from just below the summit. When projects are 750 square feet or more, Grading and Stormwater Management (SWM) are required to be implemented for a project. The Fisher Chimneys portion of the climb ascend the imposing West face of the mountain, skirting the . After breakfast, we break camp, pack our gear and retrace our steps back to the trailhead. Rob's trial by fire scrambling with an overnight pack on his first day climbing a mountain. Since departures require a minimum number of participants, Northwest Alpine Guides must adhere to a stringent refund policy. July 15, 2019 Mount Shuksan / Fisher Chimneys Route Trail from Lake Ann TH to Lake Ann is snow free except a small snowpatch just before the lake. Please prepare your meals prior to your climb. Distance: 5 miles, 4,000 ft. gain. Solid holds all over the chimneys make for fun scrambling. At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. Shuksan taken from the Summit of neighborin 1. This is a popular trail for backpacking, camping, and hiking, but you can still enjoy some solitude during quieter times of day. Trail may be snow covered in early season. It was a good spot for it, and I figured this might be a useful skill later in the trip; plus, it gave me an excuse to have everyone practice roping up, coiling the rope, using their ice axes etc. If you think bears never travel above treeline, think again: bears have been seen trekking the Quien Sabe Glacier in Boston Basin, glissading on the Neve glacier, and swimming in a sub-alpine lake near Mt. Variations are possible, and even likely, in the chimneys. A Grading permit with fee, plans signed and sealed by an engineer, and an Escrow Account are . We strongly recommend that climbers book a hotel night following the final day of their itinerary and schedule departure flights on the following day. The Permits: A trail marker negates the boundary for North . Log in and send us The team will start with a welcome meeting, run through a group gear-check and program orientation. I also had never led a complex alpine route or led anything glaciated before. Rockfall is a concern in the chimneys. No matter if you have never climbed before, our instructors are prepared to help you learn mountaineering from the ground up. I made sure to follow the main upper route on the way down, which involved more 3rd class down climbing than I expected. If there is soil, dig a small cathole 6 8 inches deep and bury waste. The difficulties of the climb include glacier travel, Hell's Highway, Winnie's Slide, 3rd to 4th class scrambling on the Fisher Chimneys and summit pyramid. Climbing and wilderness rangers are on hand to provide advice, answer questions, or assist in trip planning. Photo by Blitzo. 1. The anchors at the top of the Chimneys are best used only when there . Northwest Alpine Guides does not insure you against these risks. ), Trailhead parking fees (Northwest Forest Pass), Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Optional Cancel for Any Reason coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Small personal first-aid kit with medications and blister kit. It switchbacks, crosses two gullys, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the first chimney. Fires Dont burn it The word Shuksan is derived from a word in the language of the nearby Lummi Tribe that means high peak.. Very happy to be done with the chimney scrambling and have the helmets off. Dont smear it on a rock nearbyit gets in the water, and if you camped here, someone else probably will, too. You should have a foundation in basic rock climbing, including solid footwork and upper body strength. Despite the fact that Hells Highway was steeper than Winnies slide, the darkness helped mask the sense of exposure so I was able to just keep our party moving up the slope without needing to pull out pickets and do a running belay. From our alpine bivy, we turn to alpine ice, glacier travel, steep snow climbing, more glacier travel, and eventually alpine rock climbing . Shuksan via Shannon Ridge or Lake Ann, and many other climbs). All our instructors have advanced avalanche training, wilderness medical training, and will instruct you how to be self-reliant in the mountains. The combination of the other party and eventually our own pace resulted in us being at the summit around 11am; I hadnt imagined being so close to our turnaround time. Prophet, to name a few. The road Is closed a little bit before the official lake Ann trailhead but you can park in the lower lots and walk up ( less than half a mile). 22.