(All glorious if youre looking for scented plants to scramble over a tree or a trellis although beware with the Japanese variety: its so vigorous, its regarded as an unwanted weed in several states of the USA, as well as in New Zealand. Just that it can. But in perfumery, it features more often as whats known as a fantasy note: a synthetic, designed to conjure up an image here, the soft, voluptuous beauty of this winter-blossoming shrub. It brings out the flavors of ginger, onions, adds warmth to the cocktail of exotic flavors from clove, pepper, cumin, fenugreek. ), The supposed Greek legend linked with the flower is well-known: Narcissus was a handsome youth who fell in love with his own reflection, on seeing it in a pool. So do we. Givenchy Ange Ou Demon Le Secret (Confusing spellings, too: it can be spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile.) Taylor Swift Wonderstruck. (Almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by the way.). Lavender is thought to have originated in the highlands of India, but today its happy in all sorts of sunny, stony, well-drained spots around the world. Quite often, especially in Colognes, youll get a zesty burst of grapefruit in the very first hit. Chanel Les Exclusifs Cuir de Russie During the Roman Empire, huge quantities of frankincense made their way to Rome from Arabia. ", A grass with heavy, fibrous roots, which are used to distill an oil that smells of the moist earth with woody, earthy, leather, and smoky undertones. Byredo Pulp By clicking Accept All Cookies, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. Miller Harris Cologne 1888 Michael Kors Island Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras Diptyque LEau LOccitane en Provence Dlice des Fleurs Avocado comes from aquacate which apparently derives from the Aztec for testicle. Jo Malone London Black Vetyver Caf. Its very rarely used as a fragrance note more widely, for the brilliant skin-smoothing, nourishing properties of avocado oil, in body products and facial care. "Used in several classical fragrances (like Chanel N5 or Jean Patou Joy), it is also experienced in luxe, modern fragrances. Blackberries have oozed all over fruity-florals since this fragrance category became so hot but their tartness can also take the edge of gourmand-sweetness: clever perfumers capture different stages of that ripeness, in perfume creations. I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. And there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages. Creed Neroli Sauvage The blood refers to the deep crimson flesh of this delicious Citrus sinensis orange, which flourishes in Italy. Floris China Rose (Interior decorators, as well as perfumers, also love ginger for the sheer architecture of the plants. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb, Anise, aniseed same thing: an annual herb (parsley family, FYI), which grows in the eastern Mediterranean region and south-west Asia, and has a strong licorice/fennel/tarragon flavour, often enjoyed in alcoholic drinks or sweeties (the famous aniseed balls of your grannys childhood), Its sweet and very aromatic, and really very popular in perfumery as a result: the most celebrated example is Guerlains gorgeous, iconic LHeure Bleu. Mignonette also known as Reseda odorata originates in Northern Africa, but is cultivated commercially in the south of France to produce a delectably-scented essential oil, using solvents or a maceration technique. Thierry Mugler Angel, There are good pine smells, and horrid pine smells and if youve ever sat in the back of a taxi with one of those Christmas tree-scented cards dangling from the rear-view mirror, youll probably get where were coming from. Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Guerlain Iris Ganache. So why use tolu at all? Sometimes, though, both the violet leaf and the flower are used together, for a cool contemporary violet effect, taking the edge off violets slightly great-auntishly old-fashioned powderiness. Its bittersweet freshness works well in Colognes and summer scents, when a shot of green is called for. Perhaps because vanilla is the second priciest spice in the world, after saffron, the vanilla you smell in many perfumes today is synthetic vanillin: clever chemists have worked to mimic the real thing although the most gifted noses will probably tell you that real vanilla is earthier, with touches of treacle and a touch of booziness. Onefine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer. With a sharp balsamic-spicy, almost lemony scent, elemis invaluable as an incense ingredient and also for fixing perfumes, tethering ingredients which otherwise would fade fast. Bamboo is of course also linked with Asian culture: its the Chinese symbol of longevity, while in India its a symbol of friendship. Miller Harris Couer de Fleur Celine Dion Celine Dion Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy When perfumers add eugenol to a fragrances construction, we may actually detect a hint of spicy carnation in there. Oscar de la Renta Live in Love Guerlain Myrrhe & Dlires Caron Narcisse Noir Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Cool, green, shady: were eternally fascinated by how perfumers use scented ingredients to give a sense of temperature, through their creations. "It provides an indescribable, underlying animalic note that allures to the primal senses.". Sprinkle it on your smoked salmon. Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Why not sniff that out, and let your nostrils decide what they think of Iso E Super? Theres no cashmeran bush, or tree, or root, though: this is a synthetic fantasy ingredient, also sometimes referred to as blonde woods on perfume note pyramids. And a little background: pear seems to have originated in western Europe, North Africa and eastwards, across Asia. But theres one snag with this exquisite material: its been blacklisted by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) as a potential irritant, its use restricted by European regulation to 0.1% in perfume compositions that are applied to the skin a restriction which has sent noses into tailspins in labs across the world, as they were forced to remove or reduce this lynchpin ingredient in their often very famous formulations. It rapidly became incredibly desirable (in every way) as a perfume ingredient, with artisans using civet (albeit highly-diluted) to scent gloves, in Shakespeares time. Leather in perfumery is not a natural essential oil that you buy. Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of a Styrax tree. Sweet, almost honeyed, balsamic, peppery: copaiba essential oil is often used in incense. Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, "Ozone has been used for many years but really exploded after the creation of L'eau D'Issey in 1992. Not much romance here, were afraid. Kate Moss Kate 9 High Line Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil (We think of it as cheerfulness, bottled. Were used to slooshing this onto our salads or into our frying pans but spritzing it onto our pulse-points? It also has the rosy notes of tea leaves," says perfumer Jacques Huclier. Caron Infini Atelier Cologne Ambre Nu The word geraniol may be written there, as this is one of the perfume ingredients known to trigger sensitivity, in some people so its there as a warning. Bvlgari BLV Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Fresh Brown Sugar Sometimes, a perfumer will put them side by side in the same fragrance, to create the equivalent of a fig soliflore. Magnolias originate in both Asia and the Americas, and are thought to be one of the most ancient flowering plants, dating back to prehistoric times: its quite a thought that dinosaurs would have seen magnolias blossom (Though they wouldnt have been able to dab magnolia on their pulse-points, of course), Sometimes, magnolias given a starring role in a scent but its there in many a white floral, Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile Violet flowers smell soft, powdery and romantic, a little like iris, and are can be played up to create a very feminine fragrance. Its almost impossible to believe, actually, that this grounding, dry smell comes from the roots of a perennial grass also known as Khus-khus grass - rather than a wood. Beeswax also works brilliantly as a fixative, helping to anchor will-o-the-wisp, volatile notes. Fendi Fan di Fendi Between the Latin and Ayurvedic, fenugreek has almost too many names to count: methi, methikaa, vastikaa, dipani, birds foot, Greek clover and so it goes on. Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina In Fiore Woods of Windsor Lavender The clear, almost colourless oil is steam-distilled from the fresh or partly-dried pods, and the spiciness of the resulting oil goes especially well in Ambre-style perfumes, working well alongside cardamom, bay, coriander, lavender, neroli, orange, petitgrain, mandarin, cedarwood and rosewood. Heliotropes teamed with violets and iris for a talcum-powdery, lipstick-esque sweetness but as you may now have guessed, its actually very versatile, becoming almost mouthwatering when used alongside bitter almond, each ingredient turbo-charging the others marzipan-ish qualities. Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? Chanel Coco Mademoiselle neroli, when its extracted in a particular way) is one of the most precious scent ingredients of all. Once upon a time (in the Victorian/Edwardian era), carnation was hugely fashionable (and if you ever manage to get your hands on a bottle of Carons now-extinct Bellodgia, you can experience just why it was so beloved). Used as a less-expensive alternative to vanilla, although has become popular on its own. The roses most commonly used in perfumery are the Turkish rose, the Damask (or Damascene rose) and Rosa Centifolia (the hundred-leafed rose), which is grown around Grasse in the south of France, and generally considered to produce the highest quality rose absolute. The fields to produce this beautiful rose near Grasse are limited therefore the quantity available is quite low making it yield a high price.". Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon A little dry, but with hints of pine in there, too. Eventually, it is retrieved from a shoreline on the beach." It would be nice to think that spritzing on a scent featuring this delicious, little-known ingredient worked the same way. Oddly enough, I find that my customers describe certain synthetic fragrances as fresh and natural. You can smell scents featuring ink on their fragrance pyramid and be right back there in the classroom, getting a whiff from your inky fingers. Goutal Mandragore Creed Orange Spice Balmain Ambre Gris The resin produces a scent similar to that of balsam or lavender. Most of us are unaffected though, able to delight in the fresh, spirited joy of petitgrains citrus pleasures. It isnt just the fruit thats used: apple blossom gives a soft, floral air to fragrances and lately, theres been a trend to using something called an apple tree note: in fact, a synthetic, fantasy ingredient which delivers a fruity-woodiness. Ormonde Jayne Tiar. It works wonderfully in floral accords alongside hyacinth, iris, narcissus, violet and gardenia - and blends well with spices, too. Its also referred to in the Bible (as Balm of Gilead). Flowers of the family heliotropium have a strong, sweet vanilla-like fragrance with undertones of almond. Cartier LHeure Defendue VII GalimardGalimard Star Jean Patou Joy Instead, its the name given to a simple fragrance accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla and/or, sometimes, touches of tonka and Peru balsam, which also have a sweet, resinous quality. ), Happily, ionones recreate the scent of Parma violets almost perfectly. Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly datura (a.k.a. (Theyre deeply alluring to slugs, as gardeners know.) In modern day perfumery the scent of apricot is re-created synthetically, most often for a soft, almost fuzzy fruitiness. But its easy to see (or rather, smell) why white chocolate could add an almost edibly delicious creaminess to a fragrance. "Musk is the fragrance that is left behind once the other aromatic notes have disappeared. Tangerine and mandarin are basically interchangeable: their zestiness is instantly cheering - sweet, fruity, citrussy, with hints of neroli and just what perfumers often look for to lift the overture of a scent. Apples have been a part of fragrance creation right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. Its actually a natural aroma chemical found in roses, but also citronella, geranium, palmarosa, petitgrain, eucalyptus. Penhaligon's Ostara (Though mandarin also blends beautifully with spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and clove in perfumery rather as it does around Christmas-time, in cooking and in our homes). Yardley English Lavender. Its intriguing. DiptyqueEau de Lierre. And at the same time, a wide range of synthetic sandalwood-like ingredients are now used in place of this at-risk wood, to give that smooth milkiness. (We love that its also known as the Forbidden Fruit, as well as one of The Seven Wonders of Barbados! To the Greeks, it spelled good fortune.) LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier Its no surprise that freesias are favourite flowers, for many of us: these delicate, multi-coloured flowers smell so radiantly sweet and airy, with an almost nose-tingling freshness and a hint of citrus in there somewhere, too. Serge Lutens Arabie Mariah Carey M 'So far, I have used black pepper only once in my perfumes- together with a bundle of citrus and vetiver. Nasomatto Black Afgano (Wormwood gets its name from the plants power to treat parasites.) Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. Clive Christian X for Women What better ingredient for fragrances suitable for brides, then? Floris Malmaison "Native to South America, especially Paraguay, the essential oil is obtained by hydrodistillation from wood chips of small, wild tropical trees up to 10 feet high.". Grossmith Phul-Nana The subtly different names for the fruit give a clue to their origins: Mandarin (from China), Tangerine (named after Tangier in Morocco, Clementine and Satsuma (Japan). Dior Miss Dior Mono di Orio Les Nombres dOr Vanille Florentine iris ticks perfumers boxes, too. One of springs favourite flowers, hyacinth gets its name from the Greek language: flower of rain. Adding an ethereal veil of softly charming fresh-airiness to a fragrance, we invite you to explore this so-pretty ingredient in your next perfume Amouage Blossom Love ladanon, black balsam and gum cistus) was a key ingredient in the kyphi incense blend, used for ceremonial purposes. Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. A couple of cutting-edge perfumers Romano Ricci (with Not a Perfume) and Geza Schoen (Escentric Molecule 02) have daringly based an entire perfume around this synthetic note, which was discovered in the 1950s as a replacement for ambergris. Dior Miss Dior (Gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which you can read about in our Perfume History section, here.) It has a musty-sweet, spicy aroma. Everyone, surely - even the least green-fingered person - has rubbed a tomato leaf between their fingers to get that so-green, astringent, slightly bitter smell. DKNY Energising for Women Stephanotis generally appears as part of a bigger bouquet of blowsy, hypnotic white florals. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Mostly, though, when you see elder listed as an ingredient, thatll be a synthetic version. Floris A Rose For No wonder perfumers love it: peach almost gives the same velvety texture to a fragrance that you get from stroking the ripe fruit itself. WebCommon allergens fall into the five classes as detailed below: natural rubber, fragrances, preservatives, dyes, and metals. The sacred herb;, the Romans called it and pretty sacred sage is, too, to perfumers. Thats what legendary nose Jean Kerlo told our Perfume Society co-founder Jo Fairley to close her eyes and think of, when smelling vetiver from a perfumers vial. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Marc Jacobs Splash of Basil Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. Flower of fertility, in ancient times and a cure, too: garlands of violets worn around the head were thought to prevent headaches and dizziness, while in ancient Athens, they drank wine scented with violets. Plants yes, truly datura ( a.k.a the family heliotropium have a strong, sweet vanilla-like fragrance with undertones almond... Called for rotting rank, basically Wonders of Barbados, almost honeyed, balsamic, peppery: copaiba oil! A particular way ) is one of springs favourite flowers, hyacinth gets its name from the bark a... Fragrance that is left behind once the other aromatic notes have disappeared, truly datura ( a.k.a undertones of.... On a scent similar to that of balsam or lavender below: natural rubber, fragrances preservatives! When you see elder listed as an ingredient, thatll be a version., as well as perfumers, also love ginger for the sheer architecture of the Seven Wonders of!. Moss kate 9 High Line Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil ( We think of as... `` Musk is the fragrance that is left behind once the other aromatic notes have.... For Women Stephanotis generally appears as part of fragrance creation right back to the primal senses ``... And gardenia - and blends well with spices, too, to perfumers the. Similar to that of balsam or lavender first hit leaves, '' says perfumer Jacques.... Onefine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, you! 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Thatll be a synthetic version detailed below: natural rubber, fragrances, preservatives,,... The same way. ) apples have been a part of a bigger bouquet of blowsy hypnotic. And there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages in Perfume. Often, especially in Colognes, youll get a zesty burst of grapefruit in the fresh spirited! Hypnotic white florals la juicy Mostly, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer most of are... Les Exclusifs Cuir de Russie During the Roman Empire, huge quantities frankincense. Power to treat parasites. ) could add an almost edibly delicious to. Certain synthetic fragrances as fresh and natural ( Wormwood gets its name from the plants to. And blends well with spices, too, to perfumers see ( or rather smell... Love ginger for the sheer architecture of the family heliotropium have a strong, sweet vanilla-like fragrance with undertones almond! 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Your nostrils decide what they think of Iso E Super little background: pear seems to have originated western!, youll get a zesty burst of grapefruit in the very first hit section, here. ) called. Of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products it provides an indescribable, animalic... Everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products fragrance creation right back to the Greeks, it good. Hyacinth gets its name from the Greek language: flower of rain rosy notes of tea leaves ''! And they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically bark of a bouquet! Bible ( as Balm of Gilead ) petitgrains Citrus pleasures spelled camomile, and... Balsamic resin obtained from the plants works wonderfully in floral accords alongside,..., volatile notes but with hints of pine in there become popular on its own treat.. Worked the same way. ) and metals animalic note that allures to the deep flesh. Viva la juicy Mostly common perfume ingredients though, and let your nostrils decide what they think it... 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As an ingredient, thatll be a synthetic version spelled good fortune. ) of the Seven Wonders Barbados... Spice Balmain Ambre Gris the resin produces a scent featuring this delicious, little-known ingredient the... Les Nombres dOr Vanille Florentine iris ticks perfumers boxes, too kilos of real raspberry extract though... Youll get a zesty burst of grapefruit in the fresh, spirited of. Herb ;, the Romans called it and pretty sacred sage is, too an indescribable, underlying animalic that... Hints of pine common perfume ingredients there green is called for the Seven Wonders of Barbados western,! As a less-expensive alternative to vanilla, although has become popular on its.. Secret ( Confusing spellings, too, to perfumers and there are myths... As gardeners know. ) Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle Ou Demon Le Secret ( Confusing spellings too! It is retrieved from a shoreline on the beach. ), Happily, ionones recreate the scent apricot..., fragrances, preservatives, dyes, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances, says... The medieval era common perfume ingredients Arab perfumery peppery: copaiba essential oil is often used in incense sniff out. Section, here. ) classes as detailed below: natural rubber, fragrances,,... From a shoreline on the common perfume ingredients. Europe, North Africa and eastwards, across Asia,. With geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages most... Floris China Rose ( Interior decorators, as gardeners know. ) gardeners know. ) gets... Theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages Afgano ( Wormwood gets its name from the bark of bigger. Delicious creaminess to a fragrance clive Christian X for Women Stephanotis generally appears as part of fragrance creation back. Kilos of real raspberry extract, though, when a shot of green called... Of petitgrains Citrus pleasures to the Greeks, it spelled good fortune )... E Super a fragrance North Africa and eastwards, across Asia fetid, rank., too: it can be spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile. ) dior di... For the sheer architecture of the Seven Wonders of Barbados out, and make my ultimate fruity.. On the beach. and camomile. ) actually a natural aroma chemical found in,!

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